Style Blues: Sewing a Clutch with Your Cricut Maker

Style Blues: Sewing a Clutch with Your Cricut Maker

Sew a Clutch with strap with the help of your Cricut Maker! The Maker uses a Simplicity Pattern for this adorable project!

Sewing a Clutch with Strap|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
You can make this cute bag with your Cricut Maker.

 

Sewing a Clutch with Strap

Welcome to Season 2 of the Podcast! I am excited to be back! I have a ton of great things planned for this podcast. I had to take a break from podcasting last fall. We were traveling so much, doing construction on our house, and it just wasn’t conducive to podcasting. It has now been about a year since I started my Chambray Blues blog, and it’s been a great journey. One of the things that I never expected to happen was to have a corporate sponsor to work with on the blog. Cricut has been such a great partner in my blog this last year and I am excited to announce that they are the sponsor of today’s podcast!

 

The Cricut Maker has become an integral part of my sewing room. A year ago, I had never use a Cricut, and I had no idea what I was missing. Now, I cannot imagine how I got along without it! There are so many things it can do that make sewing so much easier and less stressful! Don’t even get me started on the crafting projects, because we could talk about that all day. I love that they have hundreds of projects to choose from already on their website, and I don’t have to design things from scratch all the time.

 

My partnership with Cricut has very rewarding, they have been a great sponsor of my blog, and I just love the versatility of the Cricut Maker. Cricut has a partnership with Simplicity Sewing Patterns and there are a number of patterns in Cricut Design Space that can be downloaded directly to the Cricut Maker. This fabric Clutch with a shoulder strap is one of the Simplicity patterns.

Sewing a Clutch with Strap|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
This clutch makes a great gift, or a fabulous accessory to your handmade outfit!

Walking Through the Clutch Project

I thought I would walk you step by step through cutting and sewing a complete project with the Cricut, so you can understand how it all works. You can create a free account at Cricut.com. “Design Space” as it is called has many free projects, some are subscription with a monthly fee, and you can also pay for a specific project if you choose. This particular Clutch Sewing Pattern is $4.99. I think that’s a bargain considering how much time it saves. Think about it, there are no tissue pages to cut out by hand (does anyone else hate cutting these out?), iron and layout on your fabric, etc. Especially if you are a beginner sewer, using the Cricut can make things much less confusing!

The Simplicity patterns are individually priced, but you have lifetime access to them afterwards.

 

Here’s the link to the Clutch with Strap project on the Cricut website.

 

Once your in Design Space you can start a new project by clicking the plus sign in the left corner. Then search for Clutch with Strap or Simplicity patterns, and you will find the project.

•The first thing I like to do is read through all the cutting directions, so I know exactly what the project involves. Then scroll down to the bottom of the screen and there will be a link in green to the specific sewing directions pdf document, which I print out to have ready for construction.

•Cricut has laid out the project for you step by step, it will tell you how much fabric you will need, and any additional supplies. Recommend fabrics for this project are heavier in nature, including cotton denim, pinwale corduroy, and cotton Duck.

Sewing a Clutch with Strap|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
Pocket detail, I love contrasting pink pockets with the hot pink zipper!

Supplies Needed (affiliate links included for your convenience I will receive a small commission from your purchase at no additional charge to you, thank you for your support!):

Cricut Maker with Rotary cutting blade

Cricut Washable Fabric Pen

12′ x 24″ Fabric Grip Mat

½ yard of 3 different fabrics, 45” wide (my fabrics are Waverly from Walmart)

¼ yard of contrasting fabric, 45” wide (Waverly from Walmart)

½ yard of lightweight fusible interfacing (Pellon Craft Fuse)

Additional Supplies:

Thread

12” Zipper (I used a Jelly Zipper cut to length)

Magnetic snap

⅝” D-Rings (2 of them)

⅜” Rivets (2)

Swivel Hooks (2 for ½” strap)

35” x 1” length of leather like material for strap

Heavy duty sewing machine and needle

Heavy duty sewing thread

 

Envelope Clutch with Zipper

 

The first step is to cut the fabrics to size, according to the directions and put them on the 12 x 24” fabric grip mat. It is important that the grain of the fabric go longways on the cutting mat. Press your fabric first if needed, and place it face down on the mat, adhere to the mat with a bayer to be sure there are no wrinkles.

Select the “Make it” button in Design Space. You will have to select your machine, the Maker from the top menu on the screen. Then follow the prompts to start the Cricut Maker, insert the mat and cut each piece of fabric as directed. When the pieces are cut, remove them from the cutting mat and scrap it clean away any threads with the plastic scraper tool.

Next cut the interfacing, lining and any additional pieces of fabric as per Cricut directions.This project has an Interlining and an Interfacing. What’s the difference between the two? The purpose of interfacing is to stabilize and strengthen the fashion fabric. The Interlining basically covers the back of the fabric/interfacing and is essentially lining the inside of the bag.

Time to sew!

Sewing Directions:

1. Fuse interlining to bag front and back sections. Fold 1/4″ seam under top edge of contrasting band. Stitch lower contrasting band in place, stitch again 1/4″ away from first line of stitching.

2. Insert the small tab piece into the D-ring, baste ends together. I forgot to do this, don’t loose these pieces they are small!

3. Apply the magnetic snap to the bag as directed, stitch tabs in place at sides of bag.

4.Fuse interfacing to the pockets (there are two). Fold over, stitch with right sides together with 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave an opening to turn right side out along the bottom edge. Trim corners, turn right side out. Hand sew bottom opening closed.Press.

5. Apply pockets to bag lining, matching marks made on back of fabric with the Cricut fabric pen.Stitch along edges.

6. Install zipper along top edge of right side of printed fabric, with zipper face down. Stitch close to edge of zipper teeth. You may need to trim the zipper length, it should be 1/4″ longer than the length of the bag between the two marked dots. Whip stitch across zipper teeth before cutting off the ends of the zipper.

7. Sew the lining (right side) of the bag to the wrong side of the zipper, through all thicknesses, enclosing the zipper tape between the outside of the bag and the lining using a zipper foot. Apply bag back and lining to the other half of the zipper stitching 1/4″ from upper edge in the same manner.

8. Press zipper teeth toward the bag front and back lining sections, opening out fabric lining. Press. Line up raw edges with right sides together and stitch around the perimeter of the bag, leaving an opening to turn bag to right side at bottom of lining.

9. Turn bag right side out, press. Slip stitch opening in the lining closed. Attach zipper pull if using a separating zipper. Push lining down into bag, close zipper and press.

10. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, stitch along both edges with 1/4″ seam allowance.

11. Wrap ends around swivel hooks, mark placement and pound rivet in place (I sewed mine in place). Attach strap to D-rings on bag when finished.

sew a clutch with zipper|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
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That’s it! By marking and cutting the project with the Cricut Maker, it moves along so much faster. This project would make a nice gift for a friend, or to match a handmade dress for a special occasion. Thank you to Cricut for Sponsoring this post!

Before you go, I saved the best for last! Cricut has given a special discount for my readers! This discount is not available anywhere else, be sure to take advantage of it!

 

Use the code STYLEBLUES to get 10% off your purchase at Cricut.com. (The discount excludes machines, Cricut Access subscriptions and Digital Images. The cart sub total needs to be greater then $50 for the discount to be activated.)

 

I appreciate your listening to this podcast! Leave me a review on Itunes to help me get more sponsors, and don’t forget to share this podcast with a friend!

Be sure to check out these other posts:

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained for the Non-Crafter

Make a Chill’n Cricut T-Shirt Collection with #YogaLife

15 FAQ You Always Wanted to Know About the Cricut Maker

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

Super Simplicity Bow Tie with Cricut Maker

 

 

Anyone Can Make a Cut and Sew Sweater

Anyone Can Make a Cut and Sew Sweater

Anyone can make a cut and sew sweater, you will be amazed at how easy it is! Look for sweater fabric and make one today!

 

Anyone Can make a cut and sew sweater|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Me in my new fuzzy sweater, I can’t wait to make more of them!

Make a Cut and Sew Sweater

The holidays are over and I am back at work in my sewing studio. I am excited to share this project with you, it is super easy and one of my favorite makes! This Cut and Sew Sweater is made from sweater fabric that you can purchase at the fabric store. It’s heavier than regular knit fabric and there are many styles and colors to choose from. Sweaters that are made in garment production can be made in one of two ways. With a cut and sew yardage fabric or knitted into sweater shape by machines. We all know how much work knitting by hand is, and very few people own knitting machines. By purchasing sweater fabric by the yard you can make a sweater in a very short period of time.

Cut and Sew sweaters were first introduced to me when I was a student at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC many years ago. At that time, it was nearly impossible to find sweater fabric in the fabric stores and I recall roaming the garment district of NYC looking for the perfect knit to make a sweater. I don’t think I ever found what I was looking for! So much has changed since then! I purchased my cut and sew sweater fabric at Joann Fabrics and Crafts, but you can find it on Amazon (affiliate link) and other places.

The Sweater Fabric

Sweater fabric is usually 60″ wide, and comes in different fiber contents such as acrylic, rayon, cotton and wool. Much of it is only dry cleanable, so be sure to read the care label before you purchase. My navy blue “eyelash” fabric has bits of yellow, blue, red and white and is hand washable. I plan to wash it on the gentle cycle and dry it flat. Sweater knits stretch out easily when hung and don’t recover their stretch well, treat it a bit carefully when washing and drying. I was so excited to make this sweater I forgot to pre-wash my fabric (that never happens!), hopefully it will not shrink much in the wash!

The great thing about these sweater knits is that there are so many unique designs available. Cable knits, ribbed knits, argyle, boucle, and chenille all will give you lots of different design options. I recommend using a simple pattern like this Simplicity Pattern #S8738 for your first attempt. It has an oversized vintage look that I completely adore, and it’s easy to follow the directions.

The Sweater Details

There are only 3 seams in this sweater: the shoulders, the side seams, and neck. I serged the seams and added a piece of 1″ wide fusible interfacing in the shoulder seam as a stay to keep the shoulder from stretching. Threads magazine recently had an article about this technique and it worked perfectly! The only pattern fit adjustments needed was in the turtle neck length. I have a short neck, so I reduced the turtle by half to make a mock neck style. It fits my short neck perfectly and I couldn’t be more pleased.

Sorry for the blurry photos, my camera is on the fritz lately!

I added a little bit of length to the sleeves as well, but I shouldn’t have. The sleeves are plenty long and I end up rolling them up most of the time. It is so refreshing to have sleeves that fit my long arms, almost everything I own is short in this area! I can’t wait to make some more sweaters, this one went together in less than an hour from start to finish!

The sleeve and bottom hem are finished with a simple zig zag stitch. You could use this stitch to sew the entire sweater if you don’t have a serger. The sweater fabric really hides a lot of things and makes this a great beginner project. I use an old Elna serger that I have had for more than 25 years. It works great with just about any fabric and I love how easily it sewed this heavy knit.

Anyone Can Make a Cut and Sew Sweater|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
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For more inspiration try these posts!

Sew a 3 Step Buffalo Check Cardigan

3 Step Easy T-Shirt Pattern Hack

How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

How to Shorten Pattern Sleeves

How to Measure for Pattern Alterations

 

 

Recycled Advent Calendar for Your Sewing Room Decor

Recycled Advent Calendar for Your Sewing Room Decor

Christmas is Advent season, there’s lots of little treasures hidden in the pockets of this calendar. Make your own version using recycled bits of fabric, trims and buttons!Recycled Advent Calendar for your Sewing Decor|Chambray blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

I was honored to write this post for my friend Deborah at Salvage Sister and Mister. Even though Advent season is passed, I love having this pretty calendar as part of our Christmas decor! It’s too fun not to share!

Advent Calendar for Sewing Enthusiasts

We have used an Advent calendar each year for a long time. Now that our kids are grown, there really isn’t any need for it, but I love traditions and I can’t do without this one. This project is made completely from scraps of fabric, leftover trims, ribbons, bows, buttons and pretty little things. The words and numbers are cut on the Cricut Maker and applied with the Easy Press 2 heat press.

Recycled Advent Calendar for your Sewing Decor|Chambray blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

Supplies Needed:

• 1 yard off white canvas

•1/2 yard stripped ticking fabric

•1/4 yard glitter felt, cut into 2″ strips

•Miscellaneous leftover trims and buttons

•Gold iron on HTV Vinyl, for lettering and numbers

•Hot glue gun

•Safety pins

•1/4″ Wooden dowel cut to 27″ length

 

Recycled Advent Calendar for your Sewing Decor|Chambray blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

 

Directions:

1. Trim the canvas to 24″ square.

2. Fold up and pleat bottom section into 4 rows of 2″ deep pleats. Pin in place, sew vertically from top of pleats to bottom edge to form pockets for keeping treasures for each day.

3. Stitch the stripe fabric square in place on the upper part of the canvas, with a zig-zag stitch close to the raw edge of the material.

4. Cut the numbers and lettering on your Cricut Maker or cut them out by hand and glue them in place. You can get my Cricut Maker file here that has all the designs you will need ready for cutting.

5. Weed out the letters and numbers, removing excess vinyl leaving plastic backing in tact. Trim away extra plastic, and place each number in place on pockets with right side up. Press with a Heat Press or iron for 30 seconds on both sides to adhere. Repeat for calendar wording as desired.

6. Cut felt strips into 4″ long pieces. Fold in half to form loops and stitch along top edge of each piece. Hot Glue loop pieces in place for the tree, starting at the bottom and working your way to the top. Overlap each piece slightly as you go.

7. Add lace trim to each tree section, cutting to size and gluing as you work. Then add random buttons, bows etc. until the tree has enough items to look like a Christmas tree but leave still have space for other ornaments.

8. Put a button on a ribbon, rhinestone buttons with safety pins, small ornaments or candies in each pocket for each day. You can use safety pins to pin the top of the pockets closed if you have young children who may get into them.

9. Stitch a channel to insert the dowel for hanging at the top of the calendar, 1″ wide along top edge of canvas.

10. Thread the calendar on to a wooden dowel and hang with a pretty ribbon.

 

Recycled Advent Calendar for your Sewing Decor|Chambray blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

 

A few tips:

I prefer raw unfinished edges to create a rustic look. You can certainly finish them if you prefer. There is no need to close the pockets at the top, but you could use a safety pin on each one to secure them if you have little ones at home who might get into things. To store the calendar, replace the items into the pockets. Then, remove from the wall and simply roll around the wooden dowel to store. We had a fabric wall calendar like this growing up and it lasted for many years. If you do not have a Cricut Maker to mark the month and days on the calendar, try a fabric paint pen in gold or a Sharpie Marker instead.

Happy Creating! Don’t forget to Pin this Post!

Recycled Advent Calendar for your Sewing Decor|Chambray blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com
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Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

Scrappy Denim Boho Necklace Tutorial

How to Restyle a Boring Denim Jacket

Tees to Undies, Refashion Your Shirts to Underwear

Men’s Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Sew a 3 Step Buffalo Check Cardigan

Sew a 3 Step Buffalo Check Cardigan

Sew a Buffalo Check Cardigan in just 3 easy steps! It’s warm and cozy, great for those chilly winter days!

Easy Buffalo Cardigan

We recently went on a road trip to the mountains of North Carolina. It was colder than I expected, and I didn’t bring a coat. My buffalo check cardigan was plenty warm despite the freezing temps and I have been wearing it ever since! It was an easy item to sew with McCalls Pattern #7262. This pattern is great for sweater knits, wool or fleece. I used inexpensive buffalo fleece from JoAnn Fabrics for this project and a few simple pattern matching tricks.

Buffalo Check Cardigan in 3 Easy Steps
Simple details make this item easy to sew! Photo from McCalls website.

 

There are many things I love about this cardigan. The flowing design is comfortable and easy to wear over a t-shirt or turtleneck top. The long length covers any multitude of figure flaws and is very flattering. I decided to simplify this project into 3 easy steps to sew for a very beginner to make!

Hubby and I visited the Biltmore Mansion in North Carolina.

Buffalo Cardigan Supplies Needed:

•3 yards buffalo check fleece fabric

•McCalls Pattern #7262

•Marking pen and ruler for marking patterns

•Straight pins

•Serger or regular sewing machine with a narrow Zig-zag stitch

 

Buffalo Check Pattern Matching and Cutting Directions:

  1. Cut out front, back and sleeve pattern pieces and make any needed length adjustments. The pattern pieces are large because the collar is in one with the body of the sweater so they may look a bit odd!
  2. Lay out your fabric on the cutting table, pinning selvedges together to match the print every few inches. Be sure that the black squares match and the red squares match EXACTLY on both layers.
  3. Lay your front pattern piece on top of the fabric. Line up the underarm area of the front pattern piece with the top of a black or red square. Pin in place, checking to see that the fabric design also matches on the bottom layer of fabric. Mark your position of the print (red square top or black square top) on the pattern piece front and back with a ruler and pen. Pin entire front pattern in place.
  4. Repeat for the back pattern piece, matching the print at the underarm seam as before. If you pinned your front underarm at the top of a red square, pin the back piece on the same position in the print at the same underarm point. Pin entire back pattern in place once you are sure the pattern will line up. Do not worry about matching other points in the print. If the prints match under the arms, they will match everywhere else (shoulders and side seams) automatically.
  5. Lay out sleeve pattern, matching the same point in the print that you used before at the front and back underarm seams. Hint: It helps to visually line up the pattern piece to see how the print will match. Mark with a marking pen on the tissue paper pattern so there is no mistake where the prints will line up before laying out the pattern.
  6. Cut all pieces out after re-checking how the fabric will match a second time.

Easy 3 step buffalo cardigan|Chambray Blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

3 Step Buffalo Check Cardigan Sewing Directions:

  1. Sewing the center back collar seams together.
  2. Sew the front and back shoulder seams together.
  3. Stitch the side seams.

That’s it! Crazy simple right? So, why are patterns always so complicated? Much of it has to do with the type of fabric that is used for sewing. When using fleece fabric you do not need to finish the seam edges. This fabric saves a lot of steps! You can finish the seams if you wish, however, fleece will never unravel and is very stable even after multiple washings. By eliminating the buttons and buttonholes, there is no need for interfacing or facings. I did not hem my cardigan because it was already the perfect length and will not unravel. This cardigan would also make a great gift to sew for someone.

You can see in the photo that the print matches well at the side seam. By taking the time to match the print when cutting there is no need to fuss when sewing the seams together. It’s a great way to learn how to match prints, without a lot of stress! Fleece is easy to sew because it has some give to it. If you make a mistake and the print isn’t matching the way you want it to, you can pull the fabric a bit as you stitch to fix it. Easy peasy!

Let me know how your project turns out! Tag me on Instagram post in our Facebook Group!

 

More easy tutorials can be found below:

3 Step Easy T-Shirt Pattern Hack

Tees to Undies, Refashion Your Shirts to Underwear

Men’s Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Sew Along 2018, the Year of the Blues!

Sew a Pocket Square in 3 Easy Steps

 

Tees to Undies, Refashion Your Shirts to Underwear

Tees to Undies, Refashion Your Shirts to Underwear

T-shirts wear out quickly, but you can reuse them by making them into some new underwear! Here’s how to use your favorite tee’s and make undies!

Tees to Undies|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Use any tee’s you have around the house, these were left behind by my sons who went off to college.

Tees to Undies

If you house is anything like ours, you have piles of extra t-shirts laying around. Somehow they seem to multiply no matter how hard I try to eliminate them. I used to give everything to the thrift store, but giving things away doesn’t help stretch my household budget. I have been on a quest to find new uses for things we already have in the house. Recently, I saw someone post this idea on social media: making old t-shirts into new undies is a brilliant concept. I love that it reuses what you already have, plus it keeps more t-shirts from finding their way into the landfill. According to statistics, even thrift stores can only sell 20 percent of the donations that they receive. That means, that your thoughtful donation often ends up in the landfill or gets sold off to a foreign country. Either way it doesn’t help your budget, and help your family make ends meet.

These t-shirt boxers are great for men or women, kids or adults. I self drafted a pattern from my favorite pair of boxers with a few easy steps. Here’s how to do it:

Make Your Own Undies Boxer Pattern

1. Turn your favorite undies inside out. Fold them in half at center front and center back. Pin together any seams to keep them from shifting.

2. Lay flat on a piece of folded paper or scrap fabric. Trace around the shape with a pen or a pencil. You may be able to flatten one part of the garment at a time while you trace it. You can use a ruler to help straighten the lines a bit if needed.

3. Add 1/2″ seam allowance around the piece on the outside edges. Mark pieces front and back accordingly. Include one notch somewhere along the back crotch seam so you know which is the front and which is the back.

Tees to Undies|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Place your pattern pieces over the colored graphics.

4. Lay out your pattern pieces on the t-shirt. I liked the colored graphics so I tried to place the pattern over as much of it as possible.

5. Cut out your pattern pieces. Don’t worry, if it doesn’t turn out you can throw it away. Practice makes perfect. You were going to throw away the tee anyway remember?

Tees to Undies Sew your own boxers|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Boxers are ready to be stitched!

Tee’s to Undies Sewing Directions:

These garments are very easy to sew. You can use wide 1 5/8″ elastic at the waist purchased from the fabric store, or better yet cut off a piece from an old pair of boxers and re-use it.

1. Sew together the center front crotch seam with a narrow zig-zag stitch 1.5-2.0mm. You can serge the seam instead if you have a serger. For men’s boxers, add an extra piece of fabric 4″ wide (folded in half lengthwise to a width of 2″ the length of the placket) to make the placket opening. Stitch placket to crotch seam to desired opening length, fold placket to back side of opening, then top stitch in place on the front side. Add a front button or snap closure if desired. Confused? Look at a pair of your own boxers for reference.

2. Sew together the center back crotch seam with the same method.

3. Sew together the front and back at the side seams. Stitch remaining crotch seam together.

Tees to Undies|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Lace is great for finishing hem of boxers.

4. To finish leg opening, either hem as desired or add lace. Stitch 2″ lace hem tape to the bottom of the leg openings by overlapping the lace and fabric by 1/4″. Zig-zag along the edge of the lace to attach. Fold over lace edge and enclose raw edges, then zig zag the opening closed to finish the leg. Repeat on other leg.

Stitch elastic in place with a narrow zig zag stitch.

5. To finish waistline, measure elastic to fit waist comfortably (it needs to be snug and stretched a bit so it’s not too loose). Divide and fold elastic into four equal parts and mark with pins. Beginning at the center back seam, pin elastic in place to waist matching a pin to center back, side seam, center front seam and opposite side seam. Stretch elastic slightly to fit while sewing with zig-zag stitching, attaching elastic on to waist overlapping elastic and fabric by at least 1/4″. Fold under raw edge of elastic at center back seam and secure with zig zag stitches.

Undies to Tees Boxer Briefs|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Look how colorful these boxers are!

 

Back view: Adorable!

I can’t wait to make more of them! I you are not confident in your ability to make your own boxers pattern, you can get my pattern for free by being on my mailing list here. If you need more sewing patterns to choose from try some of these boxer and undie patterns.

For more fun re-fashioning ideas try these posts:

Mens Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Re-cyled Jean Denim Vest

How to Restyle a Boring Denim Jacket

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

 

 

 

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained for the Non-Crafter

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained for the Non-Crafter

The latest generation of the Cricut Easy Press is on the market, here’s everything you need to know even if you are a Non-Crafter!

Easy Press Gadgets Explained|Chambrayblues|Chambrayblues.com
The Easy Press 2, second generation of heat presses.

Easy Press Gadgets Explained

They are here! The new generation of Cricut heat presses, Cricut Easy Press 2, are now available! I am pleased to be able to share these with you! I love my Easy Press, but I love the Easy Press 2 even more. What’s the difference? Here’s the low down, explained for even the Non-Crafters out there! There’s also a few new projects in this post, stay tuned for the how to! This post is sponsored by Cricut. I was compensated to write this post in someway. Any opinions given are completely my own. For a complete list of disclosure rules, please see the disclosures page.

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained|Chambrayblues|Chambrayblues.com
The Easy Press and Easy Press 2 look similar but they have different features.

 

Cricut Heat Presses, Compared

Other than the color, these two heat presses look pretty similar. The original heat press is blue, the new heat press is red. These are both 9″ x 9″ in size. The main difference in the design here is the temperature settings. The original heat press heats to 320 degrees in just a few minutes. However, the Easy Press 2 heats up 25 percent faster, and can reach temperatures of 400 degrees. The Easy Press 2 rivals the commercial heat presses that can heat between 375-400 degrees. Commercial presses are large, expensive and certainly not very efficient. The Cricut Easy Press 2 can do the job so much easier!That’s impressive! I love this medium Easy Press size for making small to medium size t-shirts, tote bags, tea towels, etc.

 

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained|Chambrayblues|chambrayblues.com
Yoga Life T-Shirt with Easy Press

I used the original Easy Press for my original t-shirt collections, such as my #Yoga Life t-shirt collection. You can read that tutorial here. The original Easy Press heats up very quickly, and I found that I didn’t need to waste energy by turning it on too soon. This is great since my studio space is small and this little press heats up my entire room if it’s on too long. Another feature that I love, it automatically turns off after a period of inactivity. This has been a real life saver for me, since I tend to get side tracked by other things and forget to turn it off at times. Does anyone else do that?? Such a great feature!

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained|Chambrayblues|chambrayblues.com
You can use an iron for heat transfer vinyl, but I don’t recommend it.

My first t-shirt with heat transfer vinyl, or HTV vinyl was made using a regular iron. It was a disaster! I learned very quickly that a household iron does not work the same way! My iron takes forever to heat up, and is so small it only covers a very small part of the Heat Transfer Vinyl (or HTV) t-shirt design. I had to press, and press and repress to get the vinyl to adhere. It was frustrating!

Cricut Easy Press Gadgets Explained|Chambrayblues|Chambrayblues.com
The bottom of the heat press and household iron are very different.

When you compare the bottom of the Easy Press or Easy Press 2 and the bottom of a household iron, you can see the difference. An iron is designed to produce streams of steam with holes and indentations. It is also pointed at the tip for fine pressing. The Easy Press is perfectly square, flat, and has more surface area to come in contact with the vinyl. Therefore the Easy Press produces a better result with less effort. Another interesting fact, a household iron only reaches a maximum of 190 degrees Fahrenheit. The Easy Press 2 heats up to 400 degrees, that’s a HUGE difference in temperature! It’s no wonder that first t-shirt peeled apart in short time, my iron just wasn’t hot enough to make the vinyl stick.

I use the 9″ x 9″ size for small to medium size t-shirts.

My latest Toddler size shirt was made with the Cricut Easy Press 2. Faster and hotter, I whipped this shirt together in record time! You can get the free #Team Dark Meat graphic design from my Cricut page here!

Right Size for the Job

It is not necessary to own more than one Heat Press. However, I will say it makes things so much easier! The new Easy Press 2 devices include an extra large 16″ x 10″ size which is great for XLL t-shirts, tote bags, pillows, and banners. I used the large Easy Press for this XXL T-shirt. I always size my t-shirt graphics accordingly to the larger size shirts, since that is mostly what my family wears. With a smaller Heat Press, I would have to press this design in at least two places, but the extra large heat press does it all in one pressing. I also used this large size for my recent Christmas Snowflake Pillow project here.

Like this Thanksgiving holiday t-shirt? You can download the design file here!

The MIni Easy Press 2 is my favorite!

The Mini Heat Press is Mighty

I saved this one for last, the mini size Easy Press 2 is 6″ x 7″. So adorable! It’s the perfect size for making baby onesies, baby bibs and make up bags. This Easy Press 2 has all the great features of the other Easy Press 2’s, just in a compact size. So handy! This little baby Onesie came together in a jiffy using this mini press! Get the Thanksgiving Dinner Onesie design download here!

Each Easy Press size has a coordinating Easy Press mat.

 

Each size Easy Press has a coordinating size mat. I like organizing the mats by size so I can easily grab the one that I need for my project. The different sizes are so handy, I use them all the time! Cricut also has a handy guide for selecting which temperature setting to use for your type of vinyl, you can find that guide here.

I hope that answers all of your questions regarding the Cricut Easy Press projects. Let’s get crafty! Don’t forget to share your shirts on social media with my hashtag #Chambraybluesshirt for a chance to be featured on my Instagram page! Thanks to Cricut for sponsoring this post!

Easy Press Explained|Chambrayblues|chambrayblues.com
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This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Sew Your Own DIY Christmas Decor with Cricut

Sew Your Own DIY Christmas Decor with Cricut

Decorating for Christmas can be so much easier when you use your Cricut Maker! This Christmas stocking and holiday pillow are just the things to make your home have holiday spirit!

Cricut DIY Christmas|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
This pillow is easy to sew, and decorate with your Cricut Maker.

This post is sponsored by Cricut, any opinions given are completely my own. For a complete list of rules, see the disclosures page.

You will love this easy project, simply cut the vinyl and press onto the pillow!

The holidays aren’t far away and I have been inspired to use my Cricut Maker for a couple of fun projects! The first one is an easy to sew pillow that I made from a piece of heavy canvas from my fabric stash. The pillow uses a simple straight stitch and the applique is made from Cricut Heat Transfer Vinyl. I used a standard 18″ square pillow form from the craft store, sewed the cover and decorated it with the Cricut vinyl. It’s a fun project, it would also make a great holiday gift idea! Here’s what you will need to make your own pillow (affiliate links are included for your convenience):

Supplies for Snowflake Pillow

1. 18″ square pillow form

2. Cricut Gold Heat Transfer Vinyl

3. 1/2 yard of off white cotton canvas

4. Sewing machine, thread, scissors

5. Cricut Easy Press 2 or iron

6. Cricut Maker with cutting blade

Cricut DIY Christmas|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Weed out the negative space in the design.

Directions

1. Cut the fabric down to a square 23″ wide. Turn fabric right sides together, stitch around the outside edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance leaving an opening at the bottom edge 8″ wide to insert the pillow.

2. Press, turn right side out. Press again from right side.

3. To make the flange, top stitch 1″ from edge all the way around the pillow leaving the bottom open as before. Press.

4. Cut the vinyl on the Cricut Maker according the directions on the Cricut website here. Be sure to use the knife blade on the vinyl setting. Also, be certain to place the vinyl shiny side down on the standard grip mat before cutting.

I used my large Easy Press 2 for this project.

5. Weed out the excess vinyl from the snowflake design. Place the vinyl on the canvas pillow cover with the sticky backing down on the fabric.

6. Pre-heat your Easy Press 2 to 290 degrees, or iron to the high or cotton setting. I loved the using the new large Easy Press 2, worked great for this project! Using a press cloth or Cricut Silicone mat, press for 30 seconds. Turn the pillow over, and press again on the back side for another 30 seconds.

7. Let cool slightly, remove the clear vinyl backing.

Sew the pillow, insert the form. Then close up the seam from the outside.

8. Insert pillow form, stitch bottom opening closed.

Cricut DIY Christmas|Chambraybluesblog|Chambrayblues.com
Don’t forget to Pin this post!
Keep your floss on a ring for easy stitching!

The second project I made is this pretty felt stocking. This is a really fun project to work on your hand sewing and embroidery skills. I haven’t embroidered in a long time, and I really enjoyed working on this project. It’s perfect for keeping your hands busy while watching TV in the evenings. Don’t be intimidated by it, there are only 3 stitches in this entire project. They are the satin stitch, the french knot, and the outline stitch. The Cricut draws the initial embroidery design on the felt, and cuts the stocking out at the same time. As you hand embroider you can use a hoop if you desire. To me, it seemed awkward so I didn’t use one. The felt is quite solid and easy to work with without a hoop. I found this embroidery floss ring organizer at the craft store. It made it easy to find the right color floss and unwind it as needed. Only use 2-3 strands of floss at a time as you work. Excess strands of floss can be re-wound on to the plastic tab until needed. I am working on a video demonstrating the stitches and it will be on my You Tube channel soon.

 

Here’s what you will need for this project:

Supplies for Embroidered Felt Stocking

1. 1 yard White glittered felt

2. Cricut Maker, Cricut Fabric Mat and Rotary Cutting Blade

3. Embroidery floss in these colors: dark green, light green, red, dark blue, light blue, yellow, orange and pink.

4. Cricut fabric marking pen.

5. Embroidery Hoops, optional.

6. Hand sewing needles for embroidery ( I used a large eye needle)

Cricut DIY Christmas|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Embroidery takes a little patience but is well worth the effort!

Directions:

1. Cut the felt to 12 x 24″ as described on the Cricut website here.

2. Insert the fabric pen into the Cricut Maker along with the Rotary fabric cutting blade.

3. Draw and cut the fabric with the Cricut.

4. Remove the stocking from the mat. Embroider according to the Cricut website directions, you can print the pdf document here with the directions.

5. After embroidering, sew a 1/4″ hem on the top edge of each stocking piece.

6. Stitch stocking together by sewing along the outside edges along the marked line.

7. Sew the piece for the stocking hanging loop by folding a rectangle of felt into thirds and stitching along the entire length with a zig-zag stitch.

8. Attach the loop into the corner of the stocking with a single needle top stitch.

9. Spritz the stocking with water to remove the fabric pen marks. Cover with a press cloth, press to remove the marks. You may have to repeat the process a few times until they have all disappeared.

Cricut DIY Christmas|ChambrayBluesblog|Chambrayblues.com
Remove your fabric pen marks by spritzing the mark with water, cover with a press cloth and press.
Don’t forget to Pin this post!
Love how this stocking turned out!

I spent about 15 hours doing the embroidery for this stocking. I found it very relaxing to sew in the evenings when I was too tired to accomplish anything else. It’s great to have a hand sewing project to work on a little each day, you will be amazed at how fast it comes together! If you are a more experienced embroiderer you could probably do it in less time. I haven’t embroidered in many years, and it took me a while to get back into the swing of things. Now that I have done it, I am looking forward to my next hand sewn embroidery project. I love how colorful it is in our kitchen!

Thanks to Cricut for sponsoring this post!

If you love this project you can find other Cricut ideas here:

Make a Chill’n Cricut T-Shirt Collection with #YogaLife

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut-Part 1

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker -Part 2

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut – Part 3

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Update Your Old Jeans to Fit

Update Your Old Jeans to Fit

What do you do with your old jeans that no longer fit? You can update them so they fit like new with a few scraps of recycled denim, here’s how!

Make Your Jeans Fit|Chambray Blues Blog|Chambrayblues.com
Make your jeans fit better with this easy jean hack!

 

Jeans that Don’t Fit

We are all guilty of purchasing something that didn’t really fit us. Recently, I came home with a pair of jeans that were 3 sizes to small from the department store. I don’t know what possessed me to buy them because I knew they didn’t fit. I wanted a high waist style in a dark denim, but the store did not have my size. I had a coupon and a gift certificate that I needed to use, so I bought them anyway. These brand new jeans were not returnable and had been sitting in my closet for ages. They had never been worn, until now. I could give them to the thrift store, but I was determined to not waste them. After a bit of experimenting, I figured out how to get the perfect fit by sewing an insert down the side of the jeans. The insert is made of strips of recycled denim (I love my scraps of my boys old jeans!) that were stitched together in a colorful stripe. This is an easy project, here’s what you will need:

Make Jeans Fit|Chambray Blues Blog|Chambrayblues.com

Updated Jeans Supplies

• Jeans that are too small

•9-10 Strips of used denim or other heavy fabrics, cut 2 1/2″ wide

•Sewing Machine and thread

•Scissors or rotary cutter, mat and ruler

•Measuring tape

Directions:

1. Measure your waist and record the measurement on a piece of paper. My waist is 42″.

2. Measure the jean waistband circumference. Subtract this number from your waist measurement to get the amount of inches you need to add to the jeans. If you are a curvy fit, you may need to compare the hip measurements as well. My jeans measured 36″ at the waist. So when I subtract 42-36= 8″, 8″ need to be added to get the jeans to fit. By dividing 8 in half, there is 4″ to add to each side of the jeans. If you need to add extra room in the hips, it is easy to shape your insert on a curve so you are adding more to the area where it is needed to fit.

My denim scraps are cut off of our boys old jeans.

Strips are cut 2 1/2″ wide and made as long as possible.

3. Sew the strips of denim together with 1/4″ seam allowance, matching the left edges, the length of the piece. You can piece the strips together if they are too short as needed.

4. Cut into pieces the width that you need for your insert with a rotary cutter or scissors, mine were 4″. If you need more room in the hip, your pieces may be wider in that area. I did not include seam allowance in these calculations for simplicity.

5. Sew the cut strips together edge to edge in long strips until the piece is long enough to fit down the side of your jeans plus 1″ for hemming. Trim away excess. Hem the top and bottom edges of the strip with 1/2″ folded hem.

6. Cut side seam of jeans apart, from hem up through the waistband, removing seam allowance and any rivets that may be in the way of stitching a new seam. Baste pocket to the side of the jeans if needed (My pocket was sewn into the side seam, so when I cut the side seam away the pocket was loose. It was basted in place at the side seam to make the sewing easier for the next step.)

7. With right sides together, sew the insert to the side of the jeans on the front and back. Repeat on the other leg. Press and enjoy!

Make Your Jeans Fit|Chambray Blues Blog|Chambrayblues.com
Make your jeans fit better with this easy jean hack! Don’t forget to Pin this post!

These jeans are now super comfortable to wear! The denim insert has a bit of stretch to it fits great, and it is so nice to have new jeans with a unique design to wear! I am thrilled that this purchase was not a waste of money and I know I will get lots of wear out of them this fall! If you would like more information on diy fashion projects from my Chambray Blues Blog, click here! Thanks to Deborah for having me guest post!

If you love this idea, here are some other recycled fashion posts:

How to Make a Quilted Potholder from Scraps

Mens Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Re-cyled Jean Denim Vest

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

Make an Upcycled Denim Hat from Old Jeans

Make a Chill’n Cricut T-Shirt Collection with #YogaLife

Make a Chill’n Cricut T-Shirt Collection with #YogaLife

T-shirts are part of our everyday wardrobe, here’s how you can make your own #yogalife shirts with your Cricut Maker!

Yogalife T-shirt collection|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
This fun t-shirt collection has something for the entire family!

 

T-shirts are something we wear every day.

I often wear t-shirts to bed, to the grocery store, and certainly to yoga class. Sometimes I sew my own, but I have found that by using the Cricut Maker I can be creative and not get overwhelmed by yet another sewing project. Making t-shirts has become a phenomenon as you can see if look at the Cricut website. Some folks even make t-shirts as part of their small home businesses. Cricut has been asking me to share my T-shirt collection designs with you, all you have to do is login to Design Space on the Cricut website, and click Make it! This post is sponsored by Cricut. Any opinions given are completely my own, for a complete list of rules see the disclosure page.

 

 

Yoga Life T-shirts|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Camisole style t-shirts can be found at your local Walmart.

Sources for Supplies

My blank T-shirts come from the shelves at Walmart. I am sure you can find them in a store near you. I look for different styles and colors but keep in mind most t-shirts shrink at least 10-20 percent in the laundry. It is best if you can wash and pre-shrink your shirt before putting the graphics on it. The Cricut HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl) Iron-On vinyl is a very impressive product. It adhere’s easily and washes well to cotton and blended fiber shirts. However, for durability, drying them on high heat is not recommended. Tumble dry on low or hang dry for the best results with the colored vinyl. The metallic vinyls are more delicate and should not go in the dryer at all. I do not recommend using generic vinyls in any form, they will not hold up as well and you will wish you had used the Cricut brand.

Here’s my process for designing and creating these shirts:

#YogaLife T-Shirt Supplies Needed (affiliate links included for your convience):

White or Black adult sized t-shirts, (mine were size LT)

Activewear camisoles, gold and burgundy (I used size XL)

White Toddler Size T-Shirt (I used a 4T)

White Baby Onesie (mine was a 3T month size)

Cricut Black and White Iron on HTV-Vinyl

Cricut Rose Gold Metallic Iron on HTV-Vinyl

Standard Grip Cutting Mat (green)

Cricut Maker or other Cricut Machine

Cricut Easy Press and pressing mat

 

Yogalife t-shirts made with Cricut|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
This shirt uses Cricut Brand Rose Gold Metallic HTV vinyl

#Yoga Life Adult Shirt Directions:

  1. Chose which shirt you want to make and download the design file from the Cricut website below:

• #YogaLife design file

• Yoga Posse design file

•Yoga is my happy place design file

•White Medallion Circle of Life design file

•Rose Gold Circle of Life Medallion design file

 

  1. Choose your iron on vinyl color. Cut the vinyl to fit on the  12″ x 12″ mat. Place vinyl with shiny side down on the mat. Roll with a brayer to smooth out and remove any air bubbles.
  2. Insert the mat in the Cricut, follow the prompts for cutting the vinyl. Be sure the “mirror image” button is selected for designs with text. Remove the vinyl from the mat after cutting.
  3. Weed out the negative space in the design with the weeding tools. I find it’s easiest to do this under a window with good light. You can tape the vinyl to a bright window for weeding out the medallion designs that are more complicated.

Tip: Weed from the outside of the design towards the interior of the design in a circular motion. This keeps you from getting confused, making a mistake and removing parts of the vinyl that are needed for the design. When the design is more intricate, this is even more important. Those medallions take a bit of patience to weed out! I enjoyed working on them while watching tv.

4. Cut away any excess plastic from around the design. Gently, place your design on your shirt to determine placement. Use 2-3 finger widths as a guide under the neckline determine where to put the graphic. Be sure your design is centered left to right, use the armpit area of the shirt for a visual to center the design.

5. Heat up your Easy Press to 320 degrees, or heat your iron on the hottest setting. Cover the design with a pressing mat or press cloth, press for 20 seconds. Turn the shirt over, cover with the pressing mat and press an additional 20 seconds.

6. Remove the mat, let the shirt cool slightly. Then gently pull off the plastic vinyl backing being sure all vinyl is adhered to the shirt. Your shirt is now ready to wear!

 

Here’s how I design my t-shirts in the Cricut Design Space. It’s very easy to use and so much fun that I had to make a video to show you!

Children’s Shirt Directions:

1.Download your chosen file from Design Space from the link below;

•Child Pose shirt design file

•Warrior pose shirt design file

2.Depending on what size you are making you may have to adjust the size of the graphic a bit larger or smaller for your shirt. Then, follow the directions for the adult shirts listed above. I use the same 2-3 finger placement technique under the neckline to place the graphics.

I would love to see photos of your shirts on social media! Show them to me using the #chambraybluesshirts for a chance to be featured on Instagram or join our Chambray Blues Facebook group here for more tips and inspiration!

If you are a blogger and would like to join the Cricut Affiliate program, click here.

Make Yoga Life T-shirts with Cricut|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
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Thanks to Cricut for sponsoring! Here are some more great ideas to make with your Cricut:

Flock of Flamingo T-Shirts with Cricut

You Make Patriotic Holiday Family T-Shirts

3 Step Easy T-Shirt Pattern Hack

15 FAQ You Always Wanted to Know About the Cricut Maker

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut-Part 1

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Renaissance Costume Pattern Review and Construction Tips

Renaissance Costume Pattern Review and Construction Tips

Renaissance costumes are fun to make, I made these costumes recently with my Cricut Maker. Choose fabrics such as cotton, linen or wool for a great result.

Sewing Renaissance Costumes|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

 

Men’s Renaissance Costume

Our son Ted was thrilled with the costume I made for him. Overall, it only took a couple days to put this entire look together. This is an historic costume by Simplicity Pattern #S4059. I really enjoyed making this men’s pattern. It is simple to follow and fits really well. I didn’t need to make any size adjustments which is so encouraging! The white shirt was an easy sew using an old queen size sheet for fabric. The Renaissance time period calls for simple fabrics and colors, such as cotton, wool or linen. All of these are great choices and easy to find in stores. This outfit is cotton and linen. The sheet worked well for the white undershirt as the pattern is just HUGE. I used an entire queen size sheet to cut it from. Those big billowy sleeves require A LOT of fabric, but I love how it looks and I wouldn’t change it for the world. I did use interfacing in the collar and elastic in the cuffs, but you could easily do without them as they didn’t have that sort of thing back in the 13th century. As a costume, no one really expects things to be that accurate and I am all for modern inventions that still look fitting for the time period.

The jerkin or vest features wide shoulders and a peplum hem. These were easy to make and attach with a few simple seams. The green cotton broad cloth vest is lined, I used a scrap of mystery lining fabric from the thrift store for this purpose. It works great in this style.

I didn’t need to make the trousers that were included with the pattern, we were fortunate enough to find a pair of black linen draw string pants at the thrift store in Ted’s size. We cut them off just under the knee and left the raw hem to add to the overall effect of the costume.

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

The leather details are my own design and were cut on the Cricut Maker. Read the complete leather post here. The leather pieces were attached to the jerkin with rivets and grommets. The leather placket gives authenticity and stability to the laced up front, and the grommets were easy to install through all layers with a hammer and a wooden cutting board surface to pound on.

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com
Grommets need to be pounded in place with a hammer.

I won’t kid you, it took a bit of muscle to pound them all in place. But, sometimes it’s very gratifying to hammer away at something that has such a cool manly look. The vest is not washable, but could be sponged clean or dry cleaned with the leather trim. I am not concerned with longevity, I think it will hold up just fine. The front lacing is a faux suede cord I purchased at the craft store.

 

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

 

Women’s Renaissance Costume

This costume was much more time consuming to make. This pattern is Simplicity pattern #3809. I have made this costume before, several years ago so I was already familiar with it’s construction. Overall this is not hard to construct, but the bodice is time consuming. This time I used different fabrics that required more special care. The corset and over skirt are cut from wool crepe that I found at the thrift store. Wool cannot be ironed directly, you must use a press cloth when pressing all seams. Without a press cloth, the material will have an un-natural permanent shine left from the heat of the iron on the surface. In addition, the seam allowance can leave marks on the right side if it is over pressed. Ideally you should use a pressing ham for pressing the seams to avoid this problem. I used a rolled up towel instead, I haven’t invested in a ham to date but hope to get one soon.

Women’s Fitting Adjustments

As usual, I had to make a large number of fitting changes for the bodice and skirt pattern. The corset was lengthened for my long torso and widened to fit through the waist. The skirt was widened and lengthened as well. I am not very happy with the over all fit of either piece, there are too many puckers for my liking, especially on the corset. Most of the problem is due to the interlining and fabric that I used to line the bodice.

Sewing renassiance costumes|Chambraybluesblog|Chambrayblues.com
1/2″ wide plastic boning is stitched to the lining fabric.

The Simplicity pattern calls for the bodice fabric, interlining, and lining. It has three layers. When I made this style in the past, I used a tapestry for the corset, with muslin interlining and muslin lining. That garment fits me well and is very comfortable to wear. This time, I tried a stiffer interlining thinking it would work better for a more structured garment. I used drapery bastiste as the interlining, which is a thin cotton but very stiff and rigid. It was recommended for making corsets on another blog, and I don’t care for it at all. The purple wool crepe is wonderfully form fitting and shapes easily, but paired with the stiff interlining, it doesn’t shape at all the way it should. The combination of the two incompatible fabrics creates all sorts of puckering that wasn’t there before when I sewed this pattern from different materials.

Also, the lining is too thin and doesn’t offer any additional support. It would work better to have the boning attached to a thicker fabric (you can see it warping in the wrong direction above) such as muslin which is what I used in my first attempt at this garment. The thin lining, stiff boning and even stiffer interlining just don’t seem to work together the way they should, but rather cause rippling and puckering when they pull against each other. The casings for the boning were made from pieces of bias tape stitched on either side, then the 1/2″ wide plastic boning was inserted. Boning supplies can be ordered online from Vogue Fabrics Store.

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

I would not use a drapery product again for this style, I can actually feel it against my skin through the lining. It’s very scratchy and uncomfortable. I am not sure if I want to rip it all apart and remove it, but I might do that eventually. The bodice has several rows of plastic boning stitched into the lining, which is just a scrap of grey satin from the thrift store. Ideally, I would like a lot more boning for support as I don’t think this design provides enough for my large figure. The gold leaf embroidery detail was added around the neck and center front using a varrigated embroidery thread, before the grommets and leather details were installed.

I have been studying corset fitting and drafting for some time, and I think it would be best for me to draft my own pattern next time around. I have too many fit issues to contend with and I think I would be happier with the result of a custom pattern. Also, I am going to invest in some french Coutil for my next corset, it is expensive fabric (about $25.00 a yard) but authentic for corset making and is perfect for shaping a good fitting garment.

 

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

The chemise was one I originally made from the same Simplicity pattern a few years ago. Made from ivory cotton voile, is is thin and comfortable. It has three rows of elastic in the sleeves to create the full sleeve look. I love it and occasionally wear it out under a vest for special occasions.

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com

 

The front of the corset has grommets and leather trim that was a design I cut on my Cricut Maker. You can read more about that tutorial here. The grommets were easy to apply to the wool, and the lacing is faux suede cord from the craft store. I was not prepared for how much the corset would change my figure. After lacing it up, my skirts were huge. A corset can easily change your waist measurement by several inches, I forgot this when I measured my waist for the skirt. I need to make skirt smaller so it will fit my shape after corseting. This is a good problem to have! The green underskirt was a silk skirt that I found at the thrift store for a few dollars. I should have added pockets to the over skirt, it didn’t occur to me at the time but next time around I will add them as well.

 

The only bad thing about the underskirt being silk is that it is very slippery against the purple wool fabric over skirt. I will need to tack the over skirt up in place so it doesn’t slip down over the bottom layer when wearing it to the Fair.

That’s it! Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, I have so many fabulous things on my cutting table stop by again soon and see what’s happening!

Don’t forget to Pin this post!

 

For more sewing ideas, try these posts:

Sewing for the Renassiance Faire

Renaissance Costumes for Halloween with Cricut

How to Triumph Over Your Unfinished Sewing Projects

How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

Gertie Inspired Vintage Party Dress