Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut – Part 3

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut – Part 3

The big reveal is here, my Spinning Wheels Throw Quilt is finished! This project was a breeze by cutting all these lovely Riley Blake Fabrics on my Cricut Maker.

 

Spinning Wheels Throw Quilt|chambray blues blog|chambrayblues.com
The Finished Spinning Wheels Quilt

 

The big reveal is here! I am pleased to have finished this beautiful project! This Spinning Wheels throw quilt is made from a kit by Cricut and Riley Blake Designs. I can’t wait to cuddle with it on cool evenings out on the porch!

If you recall, I have done two other posts about this entire quilting process. You can read more about how this entire project came together:

Read post 1

Read post 2

Spinning Wheels Throw Quilt|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
Finished Quilt Size is 54″ x 70″

This post is sponsored by Riley Blake Designs and Cricut. Any opinions given are completely my own.

Spinning Wheels Throw Quilt|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com
Quilt top has 35 Spinning Wheel Blocks

The Spinning Wheels Quilt

This project is made from 4″ quilt blocks that are assembled into the Spinning Wheels design. The great thing about it is that the Cricut cuts all those little pieces so you don’t have to. You can read more about that in my original post. Cut the pieces and then it’s a step by step process of sewing them together two at a time. Each Spinning Wheels block has 4 small blocks to make the larger blocks.

I made a number of step by step videos for this project. Explaining this construction on video is so much easier. For this project, you can see a dozen new videos on my You Tube Channel. Here’s the basic block construction video:

If you have done any quilting before, you know how much easier it is to quilt when all the pieces are cut exactly the same. The Cricut Maker is such a great tool for quilting because all of the pieces are machine cut, they fit together with out a lot of fussing and trimming. Honestly, I would have never attempted this Spinning Wheels Quilt pattern on my own because I know how time consuming and physically draining it would be to cut all those little pieces by hand. With the Cricut cutting the pieces, the entire process is so much more enjoyable!

After the blocks are assembled the outside frame or boarders are added. Once it’s put together with the other layers, it’s time to quilt and then bind it. I enjoy hand stitching the outside boarder in place, it’s a great way to relax while watching tv in the evening.

Riley Blake Spinning Wheels Quilt|chambray blues blog|chambrayblues.com
The outside quilt boarder is hand finished.

Here are my top tips for stitching the blocks together and quilting:

5 Top Tips for the Spinning Wheels Quilt

1. Assemble the quilt blocks in small sections. Make all 4″ blocks, then go on to the larger ones. If you struggle matching the seams use small strips of fusible tape to hold them in place.

2. Press seam allowances toward the darker fabric on each square. This way the seam allowance doesn’t show behind the white pieces.

3. Starch the large blocks while pressing before assembling the rows. This makes joining seams easier and more accurate and will help the quilting process to go smoother.

4. Use a spray basting adhesive or large safety pins to make the quilt “sandwich” with the backing fabric and fiberfill before quilting.

5. Channel Quilt at 8″ intervals (stitching in the ditch of the seams) with a longer single needle stitch and a walking foot on your machine.

I cover many more tips in my videos, so be sure to check them out!

 

Riley Blake Quilting Kit|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

Remember what the kit looked like before? Such pretty fabrics!

Riley Blake Quilt Kit|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

Spinning Wheels Quilting Supply List

(affiliate links are included for your convenience)

Riley Blake Designs Daisey Days Throw Quilt Kit

Sewing Kit

Cutting Mat and Ruler

Rotary Cutting Tool

Cricut Maker with a Rotary Cutting Blade

This Daisey Days quilt kit can make any one of several different designs as you can see on the package. Some of my blogging friends made the other designs with the same kit! Be sure to check out their projects as well!

SookEe Designs

Sweet Red Poppy

Simple Life Pattern Company

Heather Handmade

Paisley Roots

 

 

Riley Blake and Cricut Quilting Kit|chambray blues blog|chambrayblues.com
Pin this post!

 

Thanks to Cricut and Riley Blake Designs for sponsoring this post!

Here are some other fun things you can make with a Cricut!

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

Super Simplicity Bow Tie with Cricut Maker

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut-Part 1

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker -Part 2

Make an Upcycled Denim Hat from Old Jeans

What You Should Know About the Cricut Maker

If you are a blogger and are interested in Cricut’s affiliate program, click here!

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Re-cyled Jean Denim Vest

Denim is an easy fabric to work with, this jean vest uses pairs of old jeans for a stylish layering piece!

 

Recycled jean Vest|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com

Today’s project is easy to make from 3 pairs of old denim jeans. The Recycled Jean Vest pattern is super easy to follow, even if you have never sewn before you will have no troubles! You can purchase it from my affiliate link for Annie’s Catalogue here :

Recycled jean Vest|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com

This is a PDF pattern download, what that means is you will have immediate access to download the sewing pattern. It comes in sizes small up to 3x, and has a rather generous fit. Once you purchase the pattern you will need to tape the pieces together and cut out as shown below before cutting from your fabric.

Recycled jean Vest|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com

Vest Supplies Needed:

3 pairs similar colored denim jeans with little or no stretch

PDF sewing pattern for the Modern Silhouette Vest from Annie’s Catalogue

Scissors
Thread
Pins
Sewing machine
Recycled jean Vest|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com

Jean Vest Sewing Directions:

1. Layout the pattern pieces in order from left to right. Cut off the right and bottom side of each pattern piece along the marked line. Assemble the pattern from left to right matching the marked diamonds A1 matches piece A1, B1 matches B1 etc. Tape pieces together. Cut out your desired size on the marked lines.
2. Lay out the jeans as directed in the pattern. Placing your pattern pieces accordingly. Pin in place, cut out.
3. Sew the first panel with stay stitching 1/2” from the curved edge of the side front and side back pieces as directed in the pattern. This line of stitching keeps the pieces from stretching while you are working on it. Press.
4. Beginning with the front side panel and front panel, match the seam edges with WRONG side together. Stitch with 5/8” seam allowance keeping seam to the outside of the garment as shown in photo.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the back panels, keeping seam to the out side of garment. Press.
6. Top stitch seam allowances on front panels on either side of seam 1/4” away from center. Repeat for back panels. Press.
7. Sew shoulder seam and side seams together with right sides together. The seam allowance will not show on the outside of the garment for these seams. Press.
8. I did not finish the hem, neck or armhole seams. I prefer the raw edges to show. If you wish you can zig-zag stitch or serge the raw edges in these areas to finish them.
This project is quick to put together and sew. It’s a great way to get more use out of those old jeans that would otherwise be thrown away or be sent to the thrift store. You could also use recycled bits of fleece or wool for this project.
Like this post? Don’t forget to Pin it!
Recycled jean Vest|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
Here are some other fun recycled projects:

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

Mens Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Sew a Pocket Square in 3 Easy Steps

Northern Territory Ragged Baby Quilt Pattern

Make an Upcycled Denim Hat from Old Jeans

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

Sewing for the Renassiance Faire

Episode 009

Sewing Costumes for the Renaissance Faire

Here ye, here ye, Lords and Ladies of the Faire! Gather around for this fascinating tale of adventure! If you are interested in cosplay, steampunk or historical costumes, this is for you!

 

Hi everyone, I am thrilled to be back again and talking about sewing costumes for the Renaissance Faire. This is one of my all time favorite things to do, I have been attending Ren Faires for more than 25 years. It’s huge event that many people love and enjoy. I was at the bank recently opening a new account when I had an interesting conversation with the banker. I was telling him about my blogging business and he asked a lot of questions. Then he went on to tell me that he spends his weekends doing Steampunk events! It was so unexpected, he is a very conservative gentleman with a bow tie and neatly trimmed beard, but he has a weekend passion for making costumes. Who would have guessed?

 

  1. What is the Renaissance Faire? When we were newly married about 28 years ago, a friend of mine suggested we attend the local Faire in Bristol, Wisconsin. The Faire is a theatrical event, with historically accurate costumes, music, games and food. Anything that is part of the Renaissance period from 1450-1650 is part of this festival. It is an outside event, usually in a big field, with period tents, store fronts, jousting arenas and makeshift theaters. The Faire is open each weekend for about 2 months during the summer. Professional actors are in costume as members of the Faire, and help set the stage for your experience at the event. Don’t be afraid to engage with them, it makes the experience so much fun! For example, you will learn very quickly what a “Privy” is!
  2. There are a number of very large fairs world wide, in the USA we have 4 major faires:

 

I have been to of the above but the Faire in California. Each faire is a bit different and you will find that it’s fun to travel and see what the other one’s are like. They are ADDICTIVE for those of us who love costumes and becoming someone else for a day.

 

  1. Do you have to wear a costume? The answer is no. However, you will have so much more fun if you go in costume. As a creative person, you will find so much to inspire you to sew more at the faire! Before you begin your costume, you need to decide what sort of character you would like to be. If you study history of the time (great thing to do with your kids) you will find there was a distinct difference in social classes that determined what sort of clothing they wore.

 

Peasant Class: Poor people with little or money to spend. Clothing was very simple, no prints or patterns other than an occasional tartan. No fancy buttons, trims or elastics. Clothes were made from light to mid weight woven cottons, linen, gauze, wool and burlap. Unfinished types of leather such as shearling or suede. Colors include off white, beige, light blue, dark blue, orange-red, russet, light browns, grey.

 

High Social Class: Members of the Nobility, Judges, Gentlemen and people of wealth. Clothing includes lavish textured or embroidered pieces, delicate laces and trims, silver or gold buttons, fine leather. Prints were lavish brocades, damask, finely woven linens, velvets, taffeta, silk and satins. Colors included shades of purple, red, black, white, dark brown, green.

 

Each color that was worn during this time period symbolized something about the social status of the person who was wearing it. For example, light blue was worn by marriageable young women, greens by youths, yellow by prostitutes etc. You can read more about Rennassiance color symbolism here.

 

  1. What should you wear? Let’s begin with what not to wear. Do not wear:
  • Tennis shoes
  • modern apparel and athletic wear
  • High heels
  • graphic t shirts, blue jeans
  • baseball caps
  • heavy winter clothing (it’s always the hottest day of the year at the faire)

 

  1. What can you sew for the event? What type of class you choose will determine some of what you make, but here are some ideas. Let’s start with the ladies:
  • long full skirts
  • cotton chemise (under dress) or blouse
  • corset
  • satchel (a simple drawstring purse)
  • snood (a net that is worn over long hair)
  • crescent shaped headpiece or veil
  • cape or wrap
  • blouse with ties on the front, with leg o’mutton sleeves
  • skinny pants or leggings with long boots and a big blouse (think Pirate costume)
  • loose fitting hat or bonnet

 

For the Men:

  • loose billowy under shirts with open necks and big sleeves
  • doublet or vests in leather or faux leather
  • jerkin or loose fitting top over the under shirt
  • loose fitting pants or cropped pants
  • leather breeches
  • tartan sash and kilt
  • cape
  • flamboyant flat style caps
  • garments with fur trim
  • pumpkin hose (balloon-ish style breeches covering the upper thigh)

 

Sewing and construction:

Garments during this time would have been custom made completely by hand. Fortunately, due to the popularity of the event there are a number of great historical patterns available. I chose a Simplicity Renaissance costume collection pattern that had both a peasant class design and a high class one.

 

It’s relatively easy to find plain cottons or linen. Look for brocades and fancier types of fabrics in the home decor department. The corset I made is made from gold brocade, perfect for this period.

 

When sewing, stick with simple stitches straight stitching or zig zag. I would not bother serging the seam allowances unless you plan on wearing your costume regularly.

 

General info on Corsets:

Not as hard to make as you think. The corset is the foundation garment worn over the chemise to support the bust and shape the waist. You will not want to wear a bra under this garment, although you may be tempted to do so. A corset is actually quite comfortable to wear provided it is not extremely tight and you can still breath and move in it.

 

Corsetry will require using boning. Boning during the Renaissance period was made from animal bones, today the choices are plastic or steel boning. I would suggest starting with plastic because it’s easy to use and rather forgiving to wear. Once you understand the construction of the garment, steel boning will be an easy transition. Essentially you are adding an interlining, an inner layer of material to the corset with vertical seams that contains the boning. Channels are stitched along the seam lines and then the boning is inserted. I discovered that the seam allowances are only ⅜” for this corset pattern not the usual ⅝”. That’s something to look out for. I really love my corset, it was easy to add the gromets in the front with the lace up ties. I am looking forward to making another one soon.

 

The chemise and skirt are easy to sew. I cheated and added elastic to my chemise, it’s not historically accurate but I don’t think anyone would ever know it was there. You can decide what works for you. I have seen a lot of different things at the Faire, unfinished hemlines are completely okay. It’s a costume, you can take it as far as you like, or just keep it simple.

 

You can read more of the sewing specifics on my lifestyle blog here:

https://designerssweetspot.com/renaissance-costume-tutorial-round-up/

 

I have a huge Renaissance Inspiration board on Pinterest if you need more costume ideas! Click here to join the board.

How to Have a Sewing Portfolio: Interview with Candice Ayala

Do you have a place to host all your sewing projects, connect with other influencers and brand partners? Sewing Portfolios is exactly what you need to fill the void! In this episode we talk with Candice Ayala from Sewing Portfolios.com.

Interview with Candice Ayala|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

Welcome back to the podcast! I have a treat for you today. My special guest is an amazing business woman. She has found a huge need in the marketplace for connecting influencers who sew with brand partners. Sewing Portfolios is a way to showcase your work and find connections for sponsored posts, collaborations and other sewing business related relationships.

Sewing Portfolios|chambraybluesblog|Chambrayblues.com

 

 

  1. Tell us a bit about what inspired you to create Sewingportfolios.com? Are you a sewer?
  2. Can you give us some examples of how Sewing Portfolios has worked with influencers who sew?
  3. What are some brand partners that you have worked with?
  4. How does one become a member of Sewing Portfolios?Do you work with specific types of influencers like bloggers, Instagrammers, You Tubers?
  5. What’s in the future for Sewing Portfolios? I just saw your new Look Book and it is great!
  6. I would love to see a conference where brands and influencers can connect, is that a possibility?
  7. How can people connect with you? What’s your favorite form of social media?

Thanks so much for being here and sharing your story! Here’s how you can connect with Candice:

Website: SewingPortfolios.com

Twitter @sewingportfolio

Instagram @sewing portfolios

Facebook: Sewing Portfolios

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker -Part 2

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker -Part 2

The Riley Blake Spinning Wheels Throw Quilt is well on its way, here are my tips for cutting quilt squares with the Cricut Maker.

 

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com
Cutting quilt squares is easy with the Cricut Maker.

Cutting out all the pieces of a quilt is often the most laborious part of the quilting process. Using the Cricut Maker, the cutting goes so much faster! It saves hours of bending over a low table, grasping that old rotary cutting blade! This post is sponsored by Cricut and Riley Blake Designs. I was compensated in some way for writing this post. Any opinions given are completely my own.

Riley Blake Quilting Kit|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

If you missed the first installment of this short series, be sure to check out part one here. 

Cutting Process:

Prepare the fabric by pressing all of the pieces in the Dailey Days Throw Quilt Kit. I used my Easy Press, but you can iron them instead. Set aside the yellow floral, pink polka dot and blue daisy prints for the boarder (We will cut those later). Cut the remaining fabrics into 12” pieces WOF (the width of the fabric), as directed by the Cricut pdf directions for this project.

Using a 12 x 24” cutting mat, press the white fabric right side down to the mat. Let any extra fabric hang off the edge of the mat. This is important to get the best utilization from the fabric. Do not cut off the extra fabric! Be sure you have installed the Rotary Cutting Blade in your Cricut for cutting fabric before you begin.

Place the mat into the Cricut and cut. While the machine is cutting, prepare the next mat. It is helpful to use two mats at once. While one mat is being cut, you can prepare the second mat. Remove the pieces as they are cut from the mat and sort them into piles of like fabrics. You will need to scrape off excess threads that stick to the mat in between cuts for the best adhesion. After 5-6 cuts, I clean the mat with a bit of dish soap and water. Rub off the damp threads, then pat the mat dry with a lint free towel. The mat should be as sticky as ever and ready to use again.

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut Maker|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

It is good to count how many triangles you need of each fabric for your design. I found that the Cricut is so efficient at cutting I had some extra pieces that I won’t need for the quilt. The final counts for this Spinning Wheels pattern are:

144 white triangles

20 grey

28 pink

20 dark blue

24 bright green multi color floral

24 bright green floral

15 light blue stripe

15 light blue floral

We will be making 35 blocks total for this quilt.

Here are the supplies needed for this project:

Get your pieces cut then we are ready to sew! I hope you enjoyed this post and hopefully learned a few handy tips! Be on the lookout for part 3 of this series where I will cover Quilt Assembly and wrap up this fun project.

If you like this post, try these other ideas:

Super Simplicity Bow Tie with Cricut Maker

How to Make a Recycled Denim Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

What You Should Know About the Cricut Maker

DIY Patriotic Holiday Family T-Shirts

Sew a Pocket Square in 3 Easy Steps

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut- Part 3

If you like this post don’t forget to Pin it!

Riley Blake Quilt with Cricut Part 2|Chambrayblues blog|chambrayblues.com

 

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.


 

 

 

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut-Part 1

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut-Part 1

Quilting is a wonderful hobby, it’s made so much easier by using a Cricut Maker to cut the pieces! This adorable kit comes with everything you need to cut and make a beautiful throw quilt!

 

Riley Blake Quilt Kit|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

Quilting is one of my favorite hobbies. I often make quilts for gifts, to match my decor or just because it’s a challenge. Cricut has these adorable quilting kits and I was thrilled to be able to try one. This post is sponsored by Cricut and Riley Blake. Any opinions given are completely my own. For a complete list of disclosure rules, see the disclosures page.

Riley Blake Quilting Kit|Chambray Blues Blog|www.chambrayblues.com

The Riley Blake Daisey Days Throw size quilt was perfect for cuddling on cool summer evenings on the porch. I adore the Riley Blake fabrics, and was thrilled to get a kit with all the planning and thinking already done for me! This kit comes with the coordinating fabrics that you can use to make several different designs. My choice was the Spinning Wheels design, one that I have admired for a long time but never attempted. Each design is labeled with the quilting level of expertise required so it’s easy to make an educated choice and get the one that best suits your abilities. This Spinning Wheels design is for an Intermediate or Advance quilter, mostly because of the amount of seams that need to be matched to complete the pattern.

Cricut also makes cutting mats, rulers, rotary cutters and other sewing tools. Mine were in bad shape, and I was so excited to see them arrive in the mail!

Riley Blake Fabric for Spinning Wheels Quilt|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com

The first step in the process is choosing a quilt kit in Cricut Design Space. I decided this would be best explained in a video tutorial, so here you go:

 

 

Here are the supplies needed for this project:

Riley Blake Daisey Days Throw Size Quilt Kit (affiliate link included for your convience)

•Rotary Cutter

•Cutting Mat

•PDF Sewing Directions, printed

•PDF Cutting Directions, printed

•Iron or Easy Press(affiliate link)

•Pressing mat or ironing board

Cricut Maker with Rotary Fabric Cutting Blade(affiliatelink)

•Large Fabric Grip cutting mat (pink) in 12″ x 24″ size

• Quilt backing (not included in the kit)

•Throw size polyester fiberfill quilt batting (not included in the kit)

•Sewing machine and thread

Directions for Preparing fabric to be cut:

1. Print the Spinning Wheels PDF cutting directions from the Cricut Design Space. Read through the directions.

2. Remove fabrics from the Riley Blake Quilting Kit, place them in the order to be cut according to directions.

3. Press fabrics with Easy Press (set on 196 degrees) or steam iron until smooth.

Riley Blake Quilt with Cricut|Chambrayblues blog|chambrayblues.com

 

My next tutorial will be on cutting the quilt pieces with your Cricut, so be sure to stop back for part 2 of this tutorial!

Don’t forget to Pin this post!

 

If you like this post, try these other ideas:

Super Simplicity Bow Tie with Cricut Maker

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

What You Should Know About the Cricut Maker

You Make Patriotic Holiday Family T-Shirts

Sew a Pocket Square in 3 Easy Steps

Riley Blake Throw Quilt with Cricut – Part 3

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

Men’s Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

Men’s Thrifted Shirt Upcycle Hack in 7 Steps

I adore the patchwork look of upscale designer clothing. This sewing hack uses a couple of thrift-ed men’s dress shirts and some fabric scraps to bring new feminine style!

Men’s Dress Shirt Up-cycle

Up-cycle hacks are all over the internet, and some of my favorites use men’s dress shirts. They are inexpensive, plentiful, and come in lots of great fabrics. I have been keeping this one on hand for a project for some time, I loved the orange and blue plaid colors but it was just too unfeminine for me to wear without feeling awkward. It also didn’t fit very well around the middle, which is no surprise as this is my biggest fit problem!

Men's Thrifted Shirt Restyle|Chambray Blues|www.chambrayblues.com
Photo from Soft Surroundings website

My inspiration came from this shirt from Soft Surroundings. My former workplace, I always loved seeing how their designers put fabrics together in new ways. The feminine look of the back of this shirt was what I loved about it.

Upcycled Men's Dress Shirt|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

You can easily make a men’s shirt into a feminine statement piece with these 7 steps. Here’s what you will need:

Supplies:

• 2 men’s cotton dress shirts with similar colors, works best of they are the same size (1 plaid, 1 stripe)

•1/2 yard of contrasting floral fabric

•Scissors

•ruler and fabric marker

•Sewing machine and matching thread

Restyled Mens shirt back|Chambraybluesblog|www.chambrayblues.com

 

Upcycled Men's Dress Shirt|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

 

Upcycled Men's Dress Shirt|chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

 

Directions:

  1. Remove the shirt back by cutting 1/2″ away from the armhole, yoke and side seams. Leave seams intact.

 

2. Use the piece you just removed as a pattern for cutting the contrasting floral fabric, adding 1/2″ to the top and side seams. Cut floral hem slightly shorter than the original piece, at your natural waist.

3. Cut the second shirt, under the armholes, across the front button placket and remove the back.

4. Pin top edges of floral fabric to the seam allowance just under the yoke. Stitch in place making a 1/2″ seam.

5. Sew sides of floral fabric to the back armhole, underarm and side of shirt. Break stitches at top corner as you sew, clip fabric as needed to get a square seam at shoulder.

6. Sew top of stripe fabric to the floral fabric, putting the button down placket at center back as pictured above. Sew side seams and press.

7. Finish side seams of shirt tails with 1/4″ rolled hem.

Mens Shirt Restyle|Chambray Blues Blog|chambrayblues.com
Pin it!

 

Don’t forget to Pin this post!

How to Make a Recycled Denim Ruffled Purse with Cricut and Simplicity

Make an Upcycled Denim Hat from Old Jeans

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

Scrappy Denim Boho Necklace Tutorial

How to Sew a Sunny Raincoat

You Make Patriotic Holiday Family T-Shirts

We love patriotic holidays, it’s so much fun to dress up and go to the parade or family barbecue in style. Here’s my latest project with the Cricut Maker!

Patriotic at Heart

If you have been following me for a while, you will know that I love my Cricut Maker. There are so many great things you can do with this cutting machine! Cricut has selected me and another group of bloggers to design t-shirt collections for their website. Each month a new group of 3-5 t-shirt design files will be chosen from the group and featured on their site for you to make. Not every design will be chosen, just the ones they like. The fun thing is that each collection will include adult and child sized graphics so you can make shirts for your entire family! You can purchase t-shirt blanks without any graphics on them at local craft stores, or Amazon (affiliate link is included for your convenience). For my projects I used some old white t-shirts we had laying around. Why spend money if you don’t have to?

For this Patriotic collection, I designed a number of different patriotic styles but only used the ones I liked the best. The rest will be featured here at a later time. These files are not available on the Cricut site just yet but will be soon if they are approved (cross your fingers!). I also plan to sell my SGV design files in a new shop on here on Chambray Blues which will be coming soon so you can have access to them either way!

Here’s how I made the shirts:

Patriotic T-Shirt Supplies Needed:

• Red and Royal Blue Cricut Heat Transfer Vinyl (affiliate link)

• 2-3 White T-shirts in various sizes. I used a 3T baby onesie, and XL and 2XXL adult sized shirts (affiliate link)

• Cricut Heat Press or iron (affiliate link)

•Cricut Heat Proof Matt or ironing board with heat proof cover (affiliate link)

•Cricut Maker (affiliate link)

•Cricut Ironing Shield or press cloth (affiliate link)

•Light grip matt (affiliate link)

Directions:

1. Choose a t-shirt file to make in Design Space. There are a number of patriotic files currently available. Be careful to select files designed for t-shirts, if the design is intended for other purposes you may have trouble cutting it. It could be too small or have lots of layers that will waste your materials and aren’t suitable for use with vinyl.

2. Cut the files as directed by Cricut on your machine. Be sure to place your vinyl on the grip mat with the shiny side DOWN. Also, be sure your design is REVERSED. If not, select the edit button, then the mirror setting. Cut all the pieces for your design before assembling.

3. Trim away excess vinyl. I like to cut away any extra material and save it for another project. It’s too good to waste!

4. Weed out any “white space” with the weeding tool. That is, from the wrong side (non shiny side of the vinyl) pull away any vinyl that will not be needed in your design. You will end up with your design and a somewhat sticky backing. View it from the right side, the shiny side to be certain it is correct and that it is all intact.

5. Place your vinyl shiny side UP on your t-shirt (the sticky backing will hold it in place). Be sure your design is centered evenly over the center front of the shirt. It is helpful to fold the shirt in half and mark the neckline with a pin so you can get accurate placement. I recommend placing your vinyl about 2″ down from the neckline on most styles. You may need to hold it up to a mirror and check the placement before going on to the next step.

6. Once your design is in place, cover it with the pressing mat or press cloth.

7. Heat your heat press to 340 degrees F (If you are using a different vinyl you may have to adjust the temperature). If you are using an iron, use the cotton or linen setting with no steam.

8. Press your design in place for 20 seconds (you can set the timer on your Easy Press for this). Press the design a little at a time if you are using an iron, be sure to lift the iron up and not rub it side to side or it will affect your results.

9. Turn the shirt over, cover it with the press mat and press again on the back side for an additional 15 seconds.

10. Turn the shirt over, let is cool slightly. Remove the clear plastic material and reveal your design. Check to be sure all edges are adhered to the t-shirt. You can press the vinyl again if needed, or use a weeding tool to hold it down to the warm fabric until it melts in place. Be careful not to over press your vinyl. I have made this mistake and created scorch marks from the iron. If you have this problem, try dabbing the marks with white vinegar until they disappear.

Not sure you can figure it all out? Watch this FB live video I did! You can do it!

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt

This simple skirt is made completely from scraps of thrifted cotton and an pair of old denim jeans. Here’s how you can save your scraps from the trash bin and create something fun and new to wear!

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt|Chambraybluesblog|Chambrayblues.com

Hi! I’m Jessica and I blog at Designers Sweet Spot.com. I also stitch up all sorts of fun things on my sewing blog Chambray Blues.com. I am so pleased to share this project with you all! Thanks to Deborah for having me guest post on her amazing blog!

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

Why Recycle Fabrics?

I used to give away all my clothes that didn’t fit to the thrift store. That is, until I discovered that thrift stores only keep and sell 20% of the donations they receive, the rest are bundled and sold off to foreign countries or disposed of. Isn’t that sad? All that good stuff goes to waste! I now look for ways to reuse every bit of household fabric that I can especially if it is colorful and in good condition. This is especially true for denim items, Every old pair of jeans can find a new life in someway, this type of fabric iss so versatile and wears for such a long time.

There have been dozens of popular recycled jean skirt projects across the web, this one is an easy version and quick to make with a few basic sewing tools. My fabrics came from the thrift store (other than the jeans that I already owned), which is an added bonus. The local thrift store here sells their fabric scraps for $.50 a bundle. You can’t possibly get any cheaper and I often find great quality fabric there that I couldn’t afford to buy new if it was in a fabric store.

Pair this skirt with your favorite t-shirt and sandals for a quick shopping trip, date to the movies or walk on the beach. You can adjust the length by adding or subtracting rows of ruffles, it would also be an adorable maxi skirt with more rows of fabric. This adult (size 20) version falls just above the knee and finishes 23.5″ long. This would also work great for young girls who have out grown their jeans from last year!

Here’s what you will need:

Supplies:

• One pair of old jeans, any size

• 1/2 yards cut of 3 different patterned 45″ wide cotton fabrics (red, yellow, navy)

• Rotary cutter, 6″ wide quilting ruler and cutting mat (or fabric scissors, pencil and a ruler)

• Matching thread

• Sewing machine

•Ruffling Foot attachment (optional)

Directions:

Easy to Make Scrappy Denim Skirt|Chambraybluesblog|chambrayblues.com

  1. Fold jeans in half, matching side seams and crotch seams. Pin seams together, folding pockets out of the way so they won’t get cut in the next step.
  2. Measure 10 1/2″ down from top of waistband at side seam. Mark and cut across horizontally to the center front, remove the legs of the jeans and lower part of crotch as in photo. Set aside. Save pant legs for other projects.
  3. Lay cotton fabrics on cutting mat with fold near the zero cutting edge of the cutting mat (closest to you), and selvedges at the top of the mat (away from you). Using the quilting ruler, cut fabric into rows of 6″ wide strips.
  4. Turn cotton fabrics on the mat horizontally and cut again, into 11″ wide pieces. Cut pieces will measure 6″ x 11″. Cut 15 of each of the three printed fabrics for a total of 45 pieces.
  5. Stitch the short side of the cotton pieces together in rows of 15, using a 2.5 mm single needle stitch altering colors/prints at random. There is no need to cut the threads between each row, you can chain stitch them together for faster sewing. Continue as needed until all 15 pieces are stitched together.
  6. Gather top edges of each ruffle 1/2″ from top edge with a ruffling foot or by hand using two rows of 5.0mm basting stitch 1/8″ apart and pulling up the threads to gather. Sew ends of each row together to make three complete circles of ruffles.
  7. Pin one row of patterned ruffle to denim cut offs to check fit. Adjust gathers and stitch in place. You can add or remove sections of ruffle if it is too large or small to fit it to your jean cut offs. (For girls a row of 7 pieces of patterned fabrics may be enough)
  8. Continue with second and third rows of ruffles in similar fashion, checking the length and fit as you stitch each row on.
  9. Hem finished skirt with 1/4″ narrow rolled hem on bottom edge.
  10. Press seams to finish.

Don’t forget to Pin this post!

If you enjoyed this project try some of these other recycled fabric ideas:

Scrappy Denim Boho Necklace Tutorial

How to Restyle a Boring Denim Jacket

3 Step Easy T-Shirt Pattern Hack

5 Step Easy Headband

Sewing Rainwear, What You Need to Know for Success

Sewing Rainwear, What You Need to Know for Success

In this week’s podcast, we talk about sewing rainwear and what you need to know to get the job done.

Sewing Rainwear, What You Need to Know for Success|Chambray Blues blog|www.chambrayblues.com

The Ins and Outs of Sewing Rainwear

I decided it would be fun to try something completely different from my usual sewing projects. With the rainy season here, I decided on sewing a raincoat.

There are several different types of fabric you can use for rain wear, either waterproof or water resistant. They are not the same thing. Waterproof fabrics do not allow any water penetration, verses water resistant fabrics that just repel some of the water.

To achieve truly waterproof fabric requires two or three layers within the fabric. The material, and an inner layer or layers are bonded together, usually by a high tech process called Ultrasonic welding.

Ultrasonic welding is achieved by multiple panel edges are carefully aligned together, pressed, then fused together with high levels of ultrasonic sound waves.  The energy from these sound waves is transformed into heat, which permanently bonds the two panels together (usually containing a thermoplastic material), making the two or more panels into one solid panel, with no holes whatsoever.  This type of machine is expensive, the technicians that run them are also more expensive than an average garment worker, and the material cost is reflected in this technology. This is where science and technology have changed so much in the sewing world. The result is a completely waterproof fabric that is also breathable due to the inner layers.

I couldn’t wait to try this out! Who ever thought that sewing was boring??? Fabrics that use this type of technology are 2 or 3 ply Ultra-Tex, SWB-Tex, Hyro-Shield Ripstop, and Storm Fit.

For water resistant fabrics, fabrics are woven together very tightly, water molecules are small and can filter through the fibers because it doesn’t have a backing. Light rainfall cannot pass through these tiny pores since rain drops aren’t always that big, but high water pressure from a constant downpour or submersion will cause water to find its way through the fibers.

Fabrics that are water resistant are coated Taslan, Microsuede Polyester, coated Taffeta, ripstop, Silkara, Weather Max-65 and Ten Mile Cloth.

For my project I purchased two different fabrics, the water resistant 2 ply Ultra-Tex and a soft silky water resistant Silkara for a second project.

Supplies and Resources:

Fabric sources for rainwear fabric and supplies such as grippers, waterproofing tape and buttons can be purchased at: Seattle Fabrics, Fabrics.com, LA Finchfabrics.com, Moodfabrics.com.

    1. a gabardine or twill fabric and add waterproofing after the garment is sewn instead. Can’t use fusible interfacing, it doesn’t stick to Gorex or fabrics that have a rubberized backing.
    2. Alterations to fit, lengthen the pattern. Easy to fit a dolman sleeve.
    3. Simple is easier, don’t add the fine details if you are not comfortable with them.
    4. Cutting and sewing a lining. Slippery stuff! So hard to cut! Use pattern weights and very sharp pins and scissors.
    5. Buttons vs. Grippers: Gripper snaps are easier to install but can cause tears in the fabric unless it’s interfaced. Use a good quality denim gripper for best results.Rainwear sewing techniques, waterproof fabrics are a little different animal. Can’t rip out stitches because the needle leaves holes. Can’t pin either for the same reason. Can use

    Waterproof Fabric Tips

    1. Waterproof fabrics require special care when cutting. You can’t use pins because they put holes in the fabric. Also, fabrics such as Gortex has the heavy backing which is very thick and pins won’t poke through it. You will need to use pattern weights, and lots of them when laying out the pattern to cut.
    2. Fusible interfacing doesn’t work with this type of fabric. I tried ironing some on at low heat (so the fabric doesn’t melt), and though it seemed like it was working the glue did not hold in the long run. Use a sew in interfacing instead for this project.
    3. A walking foot is essential for sewing this “sticky” fabric. One side of the fabric is slick, the other sticks like glue to everything. It gets stuck under the presser foot and doesn’t move as you are sewing. If you don’t have a walking foot, you could try using a piece of freezer paper under the presser foot to help it slide under the presser foot.
    4. A sharp needle is a must. I used a size 14 all purpose needle for this project.
    5. Good quality thread makes a huge difference, Gutterman thread was recommended by the fabric supplier and that’s what I used. Fabric was purchased from Seattle Fabrics.com.
    6. Making buttonholes was challenging. The pattern had buttons and snaps as options, I decided on buttons because they were easy to find. I think snaps would have worked better because the button holer kept sticking to the fabric as I mentioned above and was very cumbersome to use. I made several mistakes with my buttonholes, and I just have to live with how they turned out.
    7. You can’t rip out stitches with this type of fabric because it leaves holes. You only get one chance to do it right, and for the same reasons Gortex is just difficult to work with.

    Waver Jacket Pattern Review

    I have not sewn with many pdf patterns, as I usually just stick with one of the name brands. This pdf was overall well designed, but I spotted a couple of things that could have made this project turn out so much better.

    1. The Center front wasn’t cut on the straight grain: This may seem like a small detail, but this one change could have made this coat so much better. Grain line placement makes a huge difference in how the finished coat hangs. As you can see from my photos, the coat appears to have too much fullness at center front, and hides the buttons when hanging. This is because the marked grain line was at an angle to the center front, generally a no-no in the design world. Particularly with center front button plackets, the front grain must be cut on the straight grain for the best result. I knew I should have changed it when I cut it, but for some reason I didn’t. Live and learn from my mistake!
    2. Pocket placement could be better: The pockets are way to close to the center front. I did alter the pattern and added extra fullness at the side seam. The pockets should have been moved at least 2″ closer to the side seam.
    3. Lining hem could be longer: Most quality coats have what is called a jump hem. That is, a hem that has 1/2″ or more extra length in the lining so that when you move your arms and shoulders the extra length keeps the hem hanging straight and doesn’t pull up as you move. This coat was not designed this way and I discovered too late that the hem pulls up in an unattractive manor when moving about. If I make it again, I will add extra 1″ of length to the lining. For now, I stitched the hem of the lining independently from the jacket, allowing the extra movement that is needed.

    Overall this was a challenging project. The fabric I chose was not easy to work with, but I am still pleased with it. My purpose in making this jacket was to have something to wear for walking outside and working in the yard on wet days. The jacket serves it’s purpose even though it isn’t as perfect as I would like. The color alone makes me happy every time I put it on.

    See the full sewing tutorial here.