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This beautiful DIY kimono is both comfortable and fashionable! I just love the embroidered detail that I added to the back. Make one for yourself today! This post contains affiliate links. By making a purchase I will receive a small commission at no additional charge …
This ruffled camisole top is easy to make and so practical! It’s cute with boxers for sleeping, or worn out with jeans! It can be worn as a standalone top in the warmer months but is just as cute when paired with a denim jacket …
This zipper front fleece robe is part of the Black Leopard theme I’m working on in the month of August! This robe is both soft and warm, perfect for those chilly evenings at home.
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I have had this idea in my mind for many years. Animal prints are always big for fall. This year is certainly no exception! The leopard velvet fabric was perfect for my zipper front fleece robe. A bit of fun but not enough to make you crazy with too much print. By placing the trim vertically at the center front and neck this style gives you a vertical line that is flattering to any figure. The DIY robe has a long zipper and it’s easy to put on over your PJs or after you step out of the shower. The long sleeves and design of the robe will add extra warmth. You will be wearing this leopard print zippered robe every day of the week!
The black fabric I used is Minky, a recycled material made from plastic soda bottles. It’s very plush and super soft, with a napp similar to the velvet trim. Fabrics with napp have to be treated a little differently than normal materials. Here are my tips for working with fabrics that have napp.
1. What is Napp? Napp is the direction of the cut of the fibers. Similar to a cat’s fur, if you stroke it the wrong way it will “ruffle” and feel different. Napp fabrics such as velvet, velveteen, corduroy, and Minky must be cut with a directional layout. This means that all of the pattern pieces must face the same direction or the colors will appear different from each piece.
2. Use a needle board for pressing. As you may have guessed, velvet type fabrics don’t press well. The pile will flatten with an iron and not recover. The best method is to use a needle board when pressing but one that is high quality is expensive to obtain. If you are on a budget, try using either a terry cloth towel or skip the pressing all together. I don’t have a needle board, and only pressed the facing of this robe so the Minky fabric would stay pristine.
3. The high pile of this fabric makes it more difficult to sew. The fabric is very thick in spots because of its texture. You may need to lower the feed dogs on your sewing machine and increase your stitch length to keep the fabric sliding through the machine smoothly. A Teflon foot may also help, as it will slide easily on the fabric. Some people use a walking foot which also works well. I sewed most of my seams with the wrong sides together, which is necessary during construction and helps to manage the extra thickness created by this fabric.
4. Serge seams to finish. Most fleece type fabrics don’t require a lot of seam finishing but this fabric sheds a LOT. The fabric doesn’t unravel, it’s the shedding that’s the problem. Fortunately, serging the seams fixes all of it and makes a neat looking seam finish.
1. Cut out the Jasmine Zip Front Robe pattern.
2. Sew pockets to side front and back of the garment, matching circles. Stitch in place.
3. Stitch front bust darts in place, press lightly.
4. Sew shoulder seams together, with right sides together. Finish raw edges of the seam.
5. Ease sleeve into armhole while matching notches and keeping side seam of garment open.
6. Finish lower sleeve edge cuff with contrasting leopard print cuff. Fold cuff in half, stitch pieces together with right sides together, press.
7. Sew underarm sleeve seam, side seams, and pocket seams together in one motion beginning at cuff and stitching all of the way to the hem of the garment. Be sure to match underarm seams, pockets, and notches as you sew.
8. Hem bottom with 1 1/4″ hem using a blind hemstitch.
9. Sew contrasting neckband seams together at shoulder placing the right sides together. Press seam lightly open.
10. Finish outside neck edge of contrasting neckband and front facing with a narrow rolled hem on the serger. If you don’t have this stitch available, bind the edge with black bias binding.
11. Sew neck facing on to neck with WRONG side of robe to RIGHT side of facing. Trim seam to 1/4″. Under stitch facing to keep it from rolling out of place. Turn facing to the outside of the garment, baste in place. Topstitch over basting stitches.
12. Place zipper stop at the mark on center front. Pin zipper in place on both sides, separating zipper teeth as needed. Baste in place, then stop stitch from the right side.
Enjoy the coming cool morning in this cozy DIY bathrobe. This zipper front fleece robe pattern will be available soon for download. Be on the lookout for more leopard projects coming soon!
Are you still looking for more inspiration? Here are some more projects you will also love:
Old Skirt Upcycle: Statement Sleeve Top
11 Tips for Sewing Knit Fabrics
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Kids love a special bag to capture all their loot from the big Halloween event. This simple DIY trick or treat bag is charming and not a bit scary to make. This post contains affiliate links. By making a purchase I will receive a small …
Caftans are a classic garment that fits like a maxi dress but also features large comfortable sleeves that make it perfectly flattering for any size figure. This post contains affiliate links. By making a purchase I will receive a small commission at no additional charge …
This Yoga Mat Bag is both easy and fun to make! It may even motivate you to join a yoga class…at least that was my hope! I had so much fun customizing this fun yoga bag.
This post contains affiliate links. By making a purchase I will receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. Thank you for your support!
I’ve adapted this post from my original blog, Designers Sweet Spot. Enjoy!
It’s been a long week full of emotional struggles. Another one of our boys has gone off to college. I have taken some time to do some things for myself and also adjust to our new situation with just two boys left at home. Unfortunately, I have spent lots of time staring into space, wandering around looking for something to do. I even checked out a couple of yoga classes this week!
This is all new to me as I haven’t had time to exercise in years. With our quieter home, I’ve decided it’s now time to get into a new routine. One that includes a bit of time for myself.
On a whim, I decided to make this little carrying bag for my yoga mat. I figured I would be more likely to use a yoga mat bag that I created rather than a yoga mat carrier bag purchase at a store. (At least that’s the story I’m telling myself.) Although many gym bags at the store feature adjustable straps and a zip pocket, I decided to create a more simple tote bag style for myself. Doing so ensured that I could use materials and a fabric piece that I already own, making this an essentially free yoga mat bag.
1. First, remove selvages from pre-washed muslin. Trim to 24″ wide.
2. Lay the fabric out lengthwise for stenciling. You may want to press it before you begin if your piece of fabric is very wrinkled.
3. Stencil circular patterns on the middle section of the muslin while leaving 6-8″ of plain muslin on each side. (I also left 1″ un-stenciled space for seam allowance at top and bottom of the muslin.)
4. Let the fabric dry completely. I left mine for about two hours.
5. Once the muslin is fully dry, it’s finally time to sew the trim on. Using a single needle topstitch, stitch along both sides of the ribbon to hold it in place. (You can also use Stitch Witchery to fuse the ribbons in place if you don’t want to sew them.)
I used 3 rows of ribbon to designate the top edge of the bag as well as 2 rows at the bottom of the bag. The ribbons were spaced 1/2″ apart and then stitched evenly with the raw edges of the fabric, about 7″ from the edge for the first ribbon.
6. Sew 1/2″ side seam, and finished edges.
7. To make the casing for the drawstring closures at both the top and the bottom of the bag, turn over a 3/4″ seam allowance. Stitch close to the raw edge. Turn and stitch again while leaving 1″ opening in which to insert the drawstring.
8. Cut the drawstrings for each end. I used a 10″ string for the bottom of the bag as well as a 20″ one for the top. The drawstring will ensure that your yoga mat is secure.
9. Using a safety pin attached to the end of the string, feed the string through the casing. Tie the ends together, creating the lower end of the bag. Leave the ends loose at the top end of the bag which will create the opening.
10. Feed the ends of the drawstring through the toggle for the top of the bag. (You may even need to use a tweezer to pull them through the opening.) Seal the ends of the cording using either clear glue or by fusing them with a cigarette lighter.
11. Finally, attach the shoulder strap at both the top and bottom of the bag. Topstitch over the side seam and then back tack for reinforcement.
Your customized yoga mat bag is finally complete! You could also skip the first part of this project and select a fabric that has a print already on it. I enjoyed the added fun of creating my own print. (Now on to find a creative solution for transporting my yoga strap and water bottle!)
I’d love to see your finished yoga mat bag! Share it with all of us either in the comments of this post or in the Chambray Blues Facebook Group!
Still looking for even more sewing inspiration? Here are some other projects that you will also love:
Reversible DIY Ironing Board Cover
Make Your Own Terry Cloth Caftan
Simple Pillow Tutorial for the Beginner Sewer
Sew a Plus Size Wrap Top in 5 Easy Steps
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